Pattern for drafting shirt-fronts



(No Model.)

T. J. GOODWIN. PATTERN FOR DRAFTING SHIRT FRONT8. 338. Patented July 11, 1489-3.

INVENTOR .MJIII y WITNESSES TERENCE J. GOODWVIN, OF SYRACUSE, NEW YORK.

PATTERN F OR DRAFTING SH'lRT-FRONTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of LettersPatent N0. 501,338, dated July 11, 1893.

Application filed December 16, 1891. Renewed February 13, 1893. Serial No. 462,102. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, TERENCE J. GOODWIN, of Syracuse, in the county of Onondaga,in the State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Patterns for DraftingShirtFronts, of which the following, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a full, clear, and exact description.

My invention relates to improvements in patterns for drafting the fronts of shirts, and has for its object the production of a simple, practical, and effieient device consisting of adj ustable sections or plates, whereby a well fitting front for a custom made shirt can be drafted and then afterward cut by an operator possessing no more knowledge of the art v, of shirt drafting than that required in measside plate at theopposite side of the pattern v havinga curved outer edge and formed of separable sections adjustably secured together, one section being composed of a division having its end curved toward the stationary arm and adjustably secured thereto, and of a division having its corresponding end hinged to the adjacent division of the other section, and a lengthwisely adjustable cross plate between the upper end of the latter side plate and the adjacent portion of the former side plate.

The invention furthermore consists in the detail construction and arrangementof the parts, all as hereinafter more particularly described and pointed out in the claims.

In describing this invention, reference is had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specificatiomin which like letters and figures indicate correspondings parts in all the views.

Figures 1 and 2 are top plan views of my improved pattern, the same being shown as contracted at Fig. l and as somewhat expanded or enlarged at Fig. 2. Fig. 3 is a detail sectional View, taken on line 33,'

Fig. 1, iilustrating'the detail construction of one of the plates composing the pattern for the front of the shirt, and Fig. 4 is a transverse sectional view, taken on line --4L4-, Fig. 2.

It is Well known that, in order to supply the demand for custom made shirts, furnishing and other stores employ a custom shirt fitter, which greatly adds to the expense of such shirts, and, as the patterns for drafting a shirt designed for one individual are useless in drafting a shirt for another, a great amount of the fitters time is consumed in making new patterns, which, after the shirt is finished, are comparatively worthless.

Hy present invention consists of a pattern for drafting the front of custom made shirts, and consists of adjustable plates or sections of peculiar construction and arrangement provided with scales, all as hereinafter clearly described and claimed.

A- represents my improved pattern, which consists of the lengthwisely adjustable plates A-A for regulating the length of the shirt front piece, the lengthwisely adjustable plates A A -A A for determining the waist, chest, breast, and yoke widths, the lengthwisely adjustable plate A" for regulating the depth of the arm hole, the curved plate -A for determining the curve of the arm hole, and the adjustable top plate A The side plate A- is composed of the sections a-c'fhaving their adjacent ends lapping one upon the other, the section Ct being provided with a scale l and a lug a and the section a with a lengthwise slot Ct for receiving the lug a whereby the upper edge of the section 'a'- is movable along the scale -l--.

The side plate A consists of the sections a -a lapping with each other, the

section a being composed of the upper and lower divisions -a a hinged together at their adjacent extremities. The upper end of the division -a"' curves very gradually toward the side plate A', its central portion curves much more abruptly toward said side plate, and its bottom extremity is disposed in a plane at substantially right angles to the side plate A, and is provided with a slot a -for receivinglugsa a provided on the laterally extending arm a rigidly secured to the lower end of the side plate A. The upper division (t of the section -a is formed with the slot a for receiving a lug --a on the section a of the side plate -A and the outer edge of said division -a is compoundly curved for forming, in connection with the upper part of the division aof the section --tt and with the lower part of the section a, the central part of the side edge of the front piece of the shirt.

The section a* of the side plate A is hinged at, its upper extremity to a cross plate -A previously referred to, and is provided with a slot ct for receiving a lug a at the upper extremity of the division -a" of the side plate section -a The cross plates A A for regulating the waist and chest widths of the front piece are composed of sections a a lapping one upon the other, and consisting, essentially, of arms extending laterally from the adjacent cross plates AA the sections a being provided with lugs a" and suitable scales 2- and --3-, and the section a being rectilinearly guided on the sections aand provided with slots -ct for receiving the lugs Ct The cross-plates A for regulating the breast and yoke widths of the front piece are also composed of sections a a lapping one upon the other, the sections abeing rigidly secured to the side plate A and provided respectively with scales 4- and 5-, lugs a and the sections a being rectilinearly guided on the sections aand formed with slots a for receiving the lugs a.

The plate A consists of sectionsa a lapping upon each other, the section afibeing rigid upon, and preferably integral with, the section -aof the side plate A and provided with a scale 6 and a lug -a and the section a consisting of laterally extending arms on the section a of the cross plate A preferably formed integral with said section a and provided with a slot aF for receiving the lug a The top plate a* of the pattern A- consists of the stationary section a and the movable section a composed of divisions a a lapping upon each other, the division a being hinged at -a to the section aand provided with lugs 6L32 for engaging the slot -a of the section a and with the downwardly extending arm a pivoted to the section -a** of the cross plate A-.

The plate A is hinged at a to the outer extremity of the section a of the cross plate A and the upper extremity of its outer edge is disposed in a gradually curved plane extending outwardly from the side plate A'-, and it will be noted that the lower extremity of its outer edge is disposed in a more abruptly curved plane extending outwardly from said side plate A.

In operation, as will be readily perceived from the drawings, the curve of the side plate A Varies as said side plate or the cross plates A -A are adjusted in length. The inclination of the movable divisions a a alters as the cross plate A* is adjusted in length and the curve of the arm hole, as determined by the curved plate A*--, is changed by the adjustment of the plate A", and the cross plates A A A*.

At Fig. 4 I have shown a section of the clamp -F adapted to secure together the respective sections of the various adjustable plates of my pattern A. The clamps may be of any desired form, size, and construction, but preferably consist of a screw -fhaving its head f' bearing against the face of one section or plate and its shank passed through the overlying section or plate and provided with screw threads and a thumb nut adjustably mounted on said screw threads. It is, of course, immaterial as to whether the slot provided in one of these sections for registering with the screw fis in the upper or lower section or plate, and, in some of the plates I have shown it in the, underlying section and in others in the overlying section.

In order that the use of my pattern may be more apparent I will now proceed to fully describe its adjustment, and, in such description, will suppose, for the purpose of illustration, that it is desirable to draft a shirt of the following dimensions having an open front: length thirty-four inches, waist forty-three, chest forty-two, breast eighteen.

Upon reference to the drawings and the preceding description it will be readily apparent that the various scales of my pattern are placed on the underlying section or plate, and that above said scale is movable an edge of the overlying section or plate, and, as clearly seen in the drawings, these scales are suitably marked ofi by division lines, and at intervals thereon are figures for determining the corresponding dimensions of the shirt front when the edge of the overlying section is moved, directly abovesaid lines. The divisions of the scales -1-23-4-5- and -6 are -36-, &c., to 50. Supposing it is desired to draft a shirt of the dimensions, previously stated, the sections of the plates AA A A A and A provided with the respective scales 1234:5 and 6 are adjusted, as previously described, and, as shown at Fig. 2, until the respective division lines -34=-4t342--l8-18- and 42- show just in advance of the top edge of the plate of the respective plate divisions aa a a a and a The pattern is then at the required adjustment, and it will ber is directly in advance of the ends of the top sections a -a of said plates, and

that the number in advance of the section acorresponds to the number in advance of the section a of the cross plate A*-. After the pattern is adjusted the same is placed upon the fabric from which the shirt front is to be made, and the outline of the pattern is marked thereon; care being taken to hold the plate -A so that its upper end registers with the outer end of the section a and -a** of the respective plates A and A. This produces one-half of the shirt front, and the other half may be formed by drafting the same in like manner, or by folding the cloth and cutting through both the upper and lower fold thereof.

The operation of my invention willbereadily perceived from the foregoing description and upon reference to the drawings, and it is clearly evident that a person having only sufficient intelligence to measure an individual desiringacustorn made shirt can readily move the scale bearing plates of my pattern to the desired adjustment, and then quickly draft a single shirt front or any required number, and that the pattern may be quickly changed to conform with the measurement of another individual.

It is thus apparent that my scale substantially obviates the necessity of a custom shirt fitter for forming shirt fronts, and greatly reduces the expense thereof, and that, if desired, ready made shirts may be drafted in the same manner by the use of my improved pattern.

The detail construction and arrangementof my pattern may be somewhat varied from that shown and described, hence I do not herein limit myself to such detail construction and arrangement.

Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. In a pattern for the frontof a shirt, the combination of the lengthwisely adjustable side plate A- extending lengthwise of the pattern and forming one edge thereof, a laterally extending stationary arm a at the base of the side'plate A', thelengthwisely adjustable side plate A having a curved outer edge and formed of the sections -Ct and -a adjustably secured together, the section a being composed of the division -a* having its base curved toward the arm a and adj ustably secured thereto, and the division aF- having its corresponding end hinged to the division a and a lengthwisely adjustable cross plate a between the upper end of the side plate A and the side plate A', substantially as and r for the purpose described.

2. In a pattern for the front of a shirt, the

combination of the lengthwiselyadjustable side plate A- extending lengthwisely of the pattern, lengthwisely adjustable cross plates A and A extending laterally from the side plate A', and the side plate A consisting of the section -'-a hinged at its upper end to the cross plate-A and formed with a curved outer edge, and the section -a composed of the lower division -a secured to the cross plate A and formed with a curved outer edge and with its lower end curved toward the side plate A', and the division -a, having its outer edge curved, its lower end hinged to the upper end of the division a and its;

upper end adj ustably connected to the lower end of the section a substantially as and for the purpose specified.

3. Ina pattern for the front of a shirt, the combination of the lengthwisely adjustable scale carrying side plate A extending lengthwise of the pattern and forming one edge thereof, a laterally extending stationary arm a, at the base of the side plate A', the lengthwisely adjustable side plate A having a curved outer edge and formed of the sections --a and a adj ustably secured together, the section Ct being composed of the division cfihaving its base curved toward the lug a and adjustably secured thereto and the division of having its lower end hinged to the division a a lengthwisely adjustable cross plate .A having one end secured to the lengthwisely adjustable scale carrying side plate A and the other to said division --afi, a lengthwisely adjustable scale carrying cross plate A between the upper end of the side plate A and the side plate A', substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

4. In a pattern for the front of a shirt, the combination of the lengthwisely adjustable side plate A'--, the lengthwisely adjustable side plate A having its outer edge curved and composed of the section a and the section a comprising the division a and the division ahaving one end hinged to the division a and the other adj ustably secured to the section a, the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate A*'- having one end secured to the side plate A and the other to said section a-, the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate A having one end secured to the side plate A'- and the other to the upper extremity of said section -a and the plate A composed of *vertically adj ustable sections, one being secured to the side plate -A-' and the other to the cross plate A for regulating the depth of the arm hole, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

5. In a pattern for the front of a shirt-, the

combination of the lengthwisely adjustable side plate-A', the lengthwisely adjustable side plate -A* having its outer edge curved and composed of the section a"'- and the section -a comprising the division -'aand the division a having one end hinged to the division a and the other adj ustably secured to the section a, the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate A having one end secured to the side plate A and the other -to 'said section a the lengthwisely adj ustable cross plate A having one end secured to the side plate -A and the other to the upper extremity of said section a a cross plate -A extending laterally from the side plate -A', and a plate A** hinged to the plate A for determining the curve of the arm hole, substantially as set forth.

6. In a pattern for the front of a shirt, the combination of the lengthwisely adjustable side plate A', the lengthwisely adjustable side plate A havingits outer edge curved and composed of the section -a, and the section a comprising the division a and the division -a having one end hinged to the division -a and the other adjustably secured to the section 'd, the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate A having one end secured to the side plate -*-A- and the other to said section a*-, the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate -A having one end secured to the side plate A' and the other to the upper extremity of said section -a the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate A extending laterally from the side plate A-, the plate -A pivoted to the plate A and formed with a curved outer edge, and scales provided upon the plates 'A'A A and A substantially as and for the purpose described.

'7. In a pattern for the front of a shirt, the combination of the lengthwisely adjustable side plate -A-, the lengthwisely adjustable side plate A* having its outer edge curved and composed of the section a, and the section a' comprising the division a and the division a having one end hinged to the division a and the other adjustably secured to the section a the lengthwiselyadjustable cross plate A having one end secured to the side plate A'- and the other to said section a, the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate A having one end secured to the side plate A and the other to the upper extremity of said section -a the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate A extending laterally from the side plate A, the adjustable top plate A and the plate --A* having its central portion pivoted to the plate A, its outer edge curved and its opposite extremities adapted to be registered with the ends of the cross plate A* and the top plate A"- for determining the curve of the arm hole, substantially as and for the purpose described.

8. In a pattern for the front of a shirt, the combination of the lengthwisely adjustable side plate A- provided with a scale, the lengthwisely adjustable side plate A having its outer edge curved, composed of the section aand the section a comprising the division a"'- and the division a" having one end hinged to the division ---a and the other adj ustably secured to the section -a, the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate A provided with a scale and having one end secured to the side plate -A-- and the other to said section a*, the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate A- provided with a scale and having one end secured to the side plate A and the other to the upper extremity of the section a the plate -A provided with a scale and composed of vertically adjustable sections, one being secured to the side plate A and the other to the cross plate -A for regulating the depth of the arm hole, the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate -A*- extending laterally from the side plate A and provided with a scale, the lengthwisely adjustable top plate -A" extending laterally from the side plate A, and the plate -A having its central portion pivoted to the plate A its outer edge curved and its opposite extremities adapted to be registered with the ends of the cross plate -A and the top plate A* for determining the curve of the arm hole, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

9. In a pattern for the front of a shirt, the combination of the lengthwisely adjustable side plates A- and -A the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate A having its opposite extremities secured to the separate side plates, the top plate A" composed of the section --a extending laterally from the side plate A'-, and having one end fixed thereto and the section --CL28-- inclining toward the base of the side plate A and having one end hinged to the section a, the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate A--- extending laterally from the side plate -A and having its outer end hinged to the movable section --a of the top plate --A, the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate -A extending laterally from the side plate -A and the plate A*- having its central portion pivoted to the plate A its outer edge curved and its opposite extremities adapted to be registered with the ends of the cross plate A- and the top plate -A, substantially as and for the purpose described.

10. In a pattern for the front of a shirt, the combination of the lengthwisely adjustable side plates -A'-- and -A the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate A having its opposite extremities secured to the separate side plates, the top plate A" composed of the section a extending laterally from the side plate -A'- and having one end fixed thereto, and the section --a inclining toward the base of the side plate A and comprising the division a hinged at one end to the section -a, and the division a having one end adj ustably secured to the outerend of the divisiona the length wisely adjustable cross plate -A"- extending laterally from the side plate A'- and having one end fixed to said side plate and the other hinged to the division a of the top bar section a the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate A extending laterally from the side plate -A and the plate A having its central portion pivoted to' the plate A its outer edge curved, and its opposite extremities adapted to be registered with the ends of the cross plate A and the top plate A, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

11. In a pattern for the front of a shirt, the combination of the side plate -A, the lengthwisely adjustable side plate -o, havin g its outer edge curved and composed of the section a and the section -a comprising the division a, and the division a" having one end hinged to the division a and the other adjustably secured to the sec-' tion co, the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate A having one end secured to the side plate A'-- and the other to said secti on a,-, the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate A having one end secured to the side plate A' and the other hinged to the upper extremity of the section a, the plate a composed of Vertically adjustable sections,onebeing secured tothesideplate-A' and the other to the cross plate --A for regulating the depth of the arm hole, the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate A extending laterally from the side plate A', the top plate A* composed of the section -a extending laterally from the side plate A and having one end' fixed thereto and the section a inclining toward the base of the side plate -A and having one end hinged to the section a, the lengthwisely adjustable cross plate A* extending laterally from the side plate A'- having one end fixed to said plate and the other hinged to said section -a and the plate A having its central portion hinged to the cross plate A, its outer edge curved and its extremities adapted to be registered with the ends of the plates A and A for determining the curve of the arm hole, substantially as specified.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto signed my name, in the presence of two attesting Witnesses, at Syracuse, in the county of Onondaga, in the State of New York, this 20th day of November, 1891.

TERENCE J. GooDw N. 

